That swell the other day…
not the most functional choice of equipment given the conditions...
I thought it’d be a good idea to try paddle into a couple bombs on the Clive Barber a few mornings ago… We didn’t really know how solid it was until we got out there, about as solid as it gets down here- i got two bombs then snapped my leash- drove home, launched the ski and spent the rest of the day sharing waves with just two of us out there i think everyone was surfed out by 11am!
The Clive Barber did all the hard work getting in- but never got me out...
thing just walled up...
...and swallowed me whole
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